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Solidworks CAM, CAMWorks third impression

SolidWorks 2018 and later has a free CAM (computer-aided manufacturing) add-in to make G-code for milling machines. pdf version
Solidworks CAM, CAMWorks first impression
The first impression video of Solidworks CAM (computer-aided manufacturing) made CNC tool-paths that were unusable or useless. I fixed them in the second impression video, but there were many mistakes.

In this video I correct mistakes like having the material be tool steel instead of aluminum. I entered the proper milling machine specs from my machine. I put in machine stops so it will be possible to re-orient the part in the vise to do the underside. I also eliminated drilling operations, as this mill runs too fast for them.
I also adjusted spindle RPMs, using 12,000 RPM for the 3/8" endmill and 24,000 RPM for the 1/8 inch endmill. This put the cutting edges around 1,000 SFM (surface-feet per minute). Sometimes it was up to 1,400 SFM.

By the time I was done, the machining time was down to 24 minutes, a long cry from the 14 hours it started with when I let the program automatically recognize features and create "operation plans," the CAMWorks jargon for the several toolpaths you might need to make a feature like a hole or a pocket.
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The part I am programming is some ballscrew flange I downloaded off the internet, I can't even remember where or what it is. I just wanted a solid model to play with the CAM package.

I don't think you would use a 3-axis mill to make this part, more likely a turret lathe. Still, programming it give me a feel for how SolidWorks CAM operates, and the problems I will face in any CAM program.

By the end of this 40-minute video, I had programmed a part that might break endmills, but in theory, at least it was carving out the part with the proper features. Best yet, I did this with only two endmills, a 3/8" and a 1/8" carbide 2-flute tools I bought from Avid when I bought the CNC mill.

While rehearsing for this video, I messed and messed with the program. In some of my practice runs, I eliminate any roughing, since Destiny tool sells Viper endmills they claim you can use for both rough and finish milling. I also changed the operations from plunging the endmill down, to spiraling down.

There were several places, like the 1/4" holes where I ended up with gouged material. I fixed this by eliminating lead-ins, which did not seem to be needed when the tool spirals into the stock. By the time I was done, the machine time was under nine minutes.

I suspect I would break tools if I ran this fast, but the benefit of a high-speed spindle is that it lets you do high-speed machining. As long as the harmonics of the cutting action do not generate tool chatter, it is fine to cut aluminum at 24,000 RPM. You do need coolant so the aluminum does not stick to the tool flutes. I will be using Trico MD-7 in their micro-drop unit.
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Many forum posts state that spindle torque is "more important" than spindle horsepower. They are both important. For a constant-torque spindle like I have, it has the same turning force at 8,000 and at 24,000 RPM. It is a 2.2kW spindle, equal to 3 HP in English units.

The torque is an absolute necessity for carving a sharp edge though the aluminum. The amount of torque is based on how deep the cut is, and whether you are cutting a slot, or just taking down an edge. The horsepower of your spindle will determine how many of those cuts you can make in a given time.

So you should always start by thinking of the spindle running a full speed, at least for a constant-torque motor. If I run my 3HP spindle at 12,000 RPM it is a 1.5HP spindle. If I run it at the minimum, it is a 1HP spindle. Now with 24,000 RPM in your mind, think of all the things that make that unusable. If the tool is a large diameter, the tips of the flutes may well exceed the maximum SFM of the cutting operation.

I keep 1000 SFM in my head for aluminum, so that is a good place to start. This is why I run the 3/8 tool at 12,000 RPM and the 1/8" tool at 24,000 RPM. Now this is all predicated on taking a deep enough cut, but not too deep, by setting the feedrate. Too thin a chip and you overheat the tool. Too thick and it overheats and maybe breaks.

Once you get the right-sized chip as far a feedrate, you can figure a depth of cut (DOC) that does not exceed your spindle torque.

Since my beloved Panasonic GH4 did not focus correctly, I did not appear full-screen in this video, but the small display I do use is big enough for you to see what I am talking about.
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