Wing wall paint 1

This wall is an L-shape. The shorter pieces of the "L" did not warp as bad, but still replaced..

Bring a stapler to pop one of these nifty red flags on the back. I should have stapled the gloves down too, they almost fell off in a bump.

I carry bungees to hold down the trunk.

Here is the UPC for the lumber. I was so worried about finding straight ones I missed the big split in the middle one. I can cut around it.

I figured to work on top of the wall.

I like the Hitachi saw since it stops fast. I wear ear muffs for tinnitus. It's a nice day to work.

You can flip over your leaf barrels to use as work platforms. Don't wear gloves around rotating machinery, they catch and pull you in.

Check the angle of the saw.

I used scrap wood as a fence for the saw. The speed-square comes in handy here as well.

I used the square to line up the edges.
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I strike the 45-degree cut off the pattern.
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Check the saw for square as well. The stops were off on both directions.

I lined up the pattern with the long side up. Duh. For this board I could just flip it over.
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UI set the fence and cut the first 45-degree.
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Stupid, now I transfer the long side down.

Then I realized I could flip the pattern over so the long side was down. The two marks show how wrong I had the cut, and too short to boot.

Set the fence and make sure it is square.

The new board is a bit long, but the pattern has shrunk so I should be fine.

A better shot of the length difference. If the new board is too long, I can trim it and repaint.

Setting up to cut the shorter part of the "L".

I tried to use a leaf bucket to support the end of the board but that was not practical. Instead I just stacked it on two scrap pieces and cut.

Doing the end-cap is suited to working on the vise where the work is steady while I cut.

It took three tries. One was too narrow, one had a huge knot and top piece is right on.

I did a quick sanding more to clean the boards off than to smooth them out.

KILZ primer is great for this exterior job.
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I get one side coated for the short side of the "L" as well as the end-cap.

Then I do the 9-foot leg, sanding to get the board ready for primer.

Old nitrile gloves are brittle. I switched to 9-mil latex later on in the job.

I painted both boards at once, so I didn't get my shirt against the wet paint.

I learned a fingernail brush cleans out the paint brush great, then slap it like Bob Ross to dry.

It's 2:30, and all the boards have primer on one side. Time for an Analog Diet lunch.

By 5:30 the primer was dry, This time I tried these 8-mil latex gloves which are brand new.

I had to work on top of the long boards, but it went OK, I painted one short board at a time.

Now doing the back sides of the long boards after doing the two short boards and the cap.

Same deal, a fingernail brush cleans out the paint brush really well.

I slipped off the latex gloves, hoping to reuse them tomorrow for the second coat of primer.

Hammer the paint can lid down.
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Here are the long boards primed on both sides. Learning to clean that paintbrush well really makes it a pleasure to lay down multiple coats while saving the brush.

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I might lay that front board on the wall tomorrow before the second coat. If is is a bit too long I can trim it down and just continue to paint it. It's not a killer if the boards are a little short, I have silicone caulk to fill the gaps. I also have some wood putty to fill in gaps in the corners. After I get all that done for all three walls, I will put a final coat of color on the walls, and they should last for decades. A day each for 2nd primer, 1st color and 2nd color. It's a nice Southern tempo. The wall was rotted for a decade, so a few more days will be fine.