Wing wall fix redux

Here is the pressure-treated version with a warp. The longer walls are even wonkier.

The existing lumber needs sanding and paint.

I was delighted to have a use for my old unused Porter Cable 444 sander. But I had no pads. See the end for how I learned what to order on eBay

Instead of a fancy oscillating corner sander, a piece of sandpaper by hand did just fine.
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I used the same KILZ primer as on the boards.

Pro tip is to use a fingernail brush to clean the paint brush. Hang it up and re-use it for months.

Here are the kiln-dried lumber I have primed with KILZ and painted to match the house.

A wire brush gets some paint off the stones.

I got these 6-mil nitrile gloves on Amazon. I hate to report they seem to tear as easily as all other gloves. I'll try 8 mil latex next.

The primer dried quickly.
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This time I am not going to screw the lumber together. I will just screw the three separate pieces to the cinder-block wall.

This little warp will get pulled flat, stay tuned.

Use silicone caulk for exterior jobs, not latex. Clear tape seals the end for next time. I got almond color, but will paint over it anyway.

Tapcon concrete screws will secure the boards.

I dry-fit the wood using clamps.I cut the boards a bit short knowing the silicone will seal it.

I put a large amount of caulk where the side board meets the house..

I judged the location using the end cap.

Once the screwdriver slipped just once on a screw, I put in a new bit. I eventually had to oil the screws so I could drive them in.

Four screws hold the side board on.
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I caulked all around the top to seal the wall from rain and moisture. This got to be a mess.

If 60-weight is good for a Harley, it worked just fine to lubricate the screws so I could drive em.

Another clamp pinned the top piece while I drilled for the screws.

I laid a bead of silicone in the gap.

It got really messy, so I used a gasket scraper and a wire brush to clean off the excess silicone. Next time I will be more careful.

With four screws in the top board, I could silicone the end plate location.

I used tape to locate the end piece. It's hard to see the two pieces wrapping on the top.

Two screws secure the end cap and the new wall is much straighter and better-looking.

Here is the trick using clear tape to seal the unused silicone.

I had to resort to this socket driver to seat a couple of the screws.

Here is the pressure-treated lumber on a longer wall, warped so bad I can't use it.

The re-done wall looks much better, I regret painting the pressure treated version before deciding to use kiln-dried lumber.That white dust on the stone will wash off in the first rain. I still need to plug the little triangular gap in the corner, and to put another coat of paint on it.

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I made sure to start with this little wall, since I have a 10-foot and a 14-foot wall to do. At least for those, I did not waste paint on pressure-treated lumber. I can apply what I learned here on the next walls. The big thing was to oil the screws so I could drive them in. This is despite using the drill bit that Tapcon provides in the package, and clearing the hole really well. The other thing was to be much more careful with the silicone. I will do better on the long walls.
Bonus shots:

The day started at the dump, for the vanity job.

The county dump has a whole section for white goods.

On the way home I filled up with alcohol-free gas at the corner Wawa.

I managed to toss a lot of cardboard out, it was recycling day. This is from the new vanity.

I hope you know the trick of using a leaf blower to clean out the car.

The tarp is a huge Atmel banner they were throwing out. I knew I could use it.

To figure out the sandpaper I needed for that obsolete Porter Cable 444 profile sander I found an eBay auction with part numbers.

The part numbers lead me to this auction for 100-grit pads. They use a hook-and-loop retention system, ie Velcro.
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There was another auction for 150-grit sandpaper. The ebay auctions for the sander are 25 bucks, so the sandpaper I am buying is more than the sander is worth. Oh well.
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I bought the sander decades ago after struggling to polish a Harley Sportster rocker box. There are a lot of nooks and crannies that would be easier to sand with this gizmo. So I bought the sander, but never polished out another rocker box. What is really funny is I bought the sander but no sandpaper for it. Duh.

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OK, with this smaller wing wall installed, I still need to fill in the corner and paint it once more. The original walls cut a 45-degree at the top board so the end cap fit. Thing is, this cut was where the wet-rot was worst. I elected to keep the top board complete, and live with the little hole in the corner. I will fill it with putty.